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Spinel

The hidden royal treasure

For centuries spinel was mistaken for ruby. Today it is a collector’s gem: bright, hard-wearing and almost never treated.

Hardness
8 on the Mohs scale
Colors
Red, pink, lavender, blue, grey, black
Birthstone
August
Treatment
Rarely treated

Chapter one

History and rediscovery

Red and pink spinel adorned the treasures of Mughal emperors and European monarchs, yet for centuries it was mistaken for ruby. Gemologists only told the two apart in the 18th century.

Many historic “rubies”, including the Black Prince’s Ruby in the British Imperial State Crown, are in fact spinel. Its name likely comes from the Latin spina, thorn, after the pointed shape of its crystals.

In ancient Burma, warriors wore red spinel for protection and courage in battle. Today collectors value its natural purity and untreated color, and connoisseurs prize its subtle color variation and rare transparency.

The most famous “ruby” in the British crown is a spinel.

Chapter two

Symbolism and variety

Spinel comes in red, pink, lavender, blue, grey and black, its color coming from trace elements of chromium, cobalt and iron.

With a hardness of 8 and exceptional brilliance, it rivals fine ruby and sapphire, and most spinel is never treated.

Spinel’s rediscovery has sparked a quiet renaissance. Its pastel purples and greys pair perfectly with contemporary aesthetics, while its vivid reds and pinks recall the regal opulence of Mughal India. Across cultures, spinel symbolizes renewal, strength and inner vitality.

Spinel is, quite simply, the gem lover’s secret.

Chapter three

Made for everyday

At 8 on the Mohs scale, spinel is tough enough for a bracelet you never take off, and since it is almost never treated, its color is entirely its own.

Worth knowing

  • The Timur Ruby, a 352-carat red spinel, is part of the British Royal Collection.
  • Fine spinel was once prized above ruby for its clarity and rarity.
  • Spinel joined peridot as an August birthstone.
  • In ancient Burma, warriors wore red spinel for courage in battle.

How to wear it

With diamonds
Lavender spinel softens a diamond line without competing.
With sapphires
Blues and violets read as one color story, stacked tight.
In yellow gold
Warm gold makes pinks and reds glow.
On its own
A graduated spinel line is enough color for every day.

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