Emerald

The green of renewal

Emerald has been treasured for more than 4,000 years for a green no other gem can match.

Hardness: 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale
Colors: Bluish green to pure green
Birthstone: May
Family: Beryl, like aquamarine

Chapter one

A gem of queens

Cleopatra prized emeralds above all other gems, and the Incas and Mughals carved them into treasures. Across cultures, emerald has stood for rebirth, love and foresight.

The name comes from the Greek smaragdos, “green gem.” Cleopatra’s passion for emerald was legendary: she gifted visiting dignitaries carved emerald portraits of herself. Ancient Romans linked emerald with Venus, goddess of love, and medieval mystics used it to predict the future. Its soothing color was even thought to rest the eyes, and 16th-century gem cutters gazed into emeralds to relieve strain.

Cleopatra prized emeralds above all other gems.

Chapter two

Color and character

Emerald is green beryl, colored by chromium and vanadium. Most emeralds have tiny natural inclusions, called jardin, French for garden, that make each one its own.

Unlike most gemstones, emeralds are loved for their inclusions, called jardin (“garden”), which give each gem its own landscape. Colombian emeralds from Muzo and Chivor remain the gold standard. From Mughal engravings and Spanish colonial treasures to Art Deco masterpieces by Cartier, emeralds have left an indelible mark on art and design.

Its inclusions are called jardin, a garden inside the gem.

Chapter three

Everyday care

Emerald is often treated with oil to soften the look of its inclusions, as is traditional. Clean it with mild soapy water and avoid ultrasonic cleaners.

Worth knowing

The word emerald comes from the Greek smaragdos, “green gem.”
Emeralds are always green; lighter or bluish beryls are classed differently, like aquamarine.
The world’s largest cut emerald weighs over 1.3 kilograms.
The Mogul Mughal Emerald (1695) is inscribed with Islamic prayers and floral motifs.
Colombian emeralds from Muzo and Chivor are the gold standard.
Emerald is the birthstone of May and the traditional gem for a 55th anniversary.